Ama Dablam Expedition

Price From : $ USD
  • Ama Dablam Expedition
  • Ama Dablam Expedition
  • Ama Dablam Expedition
  • Ama Dablam Expedition
  • Ama Dablam Expedition
Trip Facts

Total Duration: 31 Days

Difficulty: Challenging

Group Size: Minimum 2 to Maximum 8 persons in a group.

Best Season: Spring (March, April, May, June) and Autumn (September, October, November).

Max Altitude: 6,856 M.

Trip Cost: US$ The price of the trip will be adjusted according to the group size and the customization.

Ama Dablam 6,856meters (22,494ft) is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive mountains in the world. It is located the heart of Everest’s Khumbu region, it lies directly above Tengboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers every year. Ama Dablam Expedition offers a superb, technical climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous cultural and scenic diversions.

Like the Matterhorn in the Swiss Alps, Ama Dablam epitomizes all that is grand about the mountains. Its striking features have become a familiar figure to the public through its adoption as the logo of ‘Perpetual’, an international assurance company, and numerous posters and books throughout the world. Such impressive beauty has made Ama Dablam a highly coveted prize for climbers. Since its first ascent in 1961 by an Anglo-American-New Zealand team, it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes.

Our route for Ama Dablam Expedition will be by the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points. The climbing provides interest on rock, snow and ice and although of a fairly technical nature, in normal conditions it is never very difficult. Apart from one short section, the climb is objectively very safe.

If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world’s most impressive mountains, this could be the trip for you.

Day 01- Arrival in Kathmandu, Nepal (1400 meters)

Upon your arrival in the Kathmandu airport after completing your custom formalities Visa, etc. pick up your luggage and look for our airport representative from Himalaya Discovery Adventures, who will display your name on the board at the arrival gate. You will be greeted by our representative and transferred to the hotel by private tourist vehicle. Overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 02- Free in Kathmandu for sightseeing and pre trip briefing and gear check.

Today is free for sightseeing in Kathmandu. You may wish to visit Durbar Square in the heart of the old city where the old Royal Palace, with its intricate woodcarving is located. The whole area is a maze of temples and images. Leading away from the square in all directions are narrow alleys, full of the most amazing variety of shops and stalls. Some of these landmarks are considered World Heritage Sites including the historic Bhaktapur Durbar Square, the famous ‘Monkey Temple’ Swayambhunath and Buddhists shrine Buddhanath which is one of the largest Stupas in the world.
There will also be a full trip briefing today with gear check. In case you need to hire or buy equipment locally there will be time to do this today. Overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.

Day 03- Official formalities in Kathmandu and Final Preparation day.

Formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism. Today, the expedition leader will also check everyone’s equipment. The last opportunity to buy anything missing, Overnight at hotel.

Day 04- Flight to Tenzing and Hillary Airport in Lukla (2886 meters) and trek to Phakding (2652 meters) 3 hours.

An early morning start takes us to (TIA) Airport in Kathmandu for the 35 minute scenic flight to Tenzing and Hillary Airport at Lukla at 2804meters. On arrival at the airport guide will brief you and introduce our porters before we begin our trek towards Phakding.

After landing we have time to discover the village while our staff sort and load our trekking equipment. Then we begin our trek by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar, located just above Chaunrikharka (2713meters). The walking is easy and after passing through the small village of Ghat (2550meters) it is a short walk to Phakding, It is important to take these first few days slowly to enable your body to acclimatise and to enjoy the passing scenery and culture. Overnight at guesthouse.

Day 05- Trek to Namche Bazaar (3441 meters) 5 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.

We continue trekking along the banks of the Dudh Kosi, crossing this majestic river many times on exciting suspension bridges laden with prayer flags. After entering Sagamartha National Park, the trail climbs steeply with breathtaking views. Namche Bazaar known as the Gateway to Everest which is home to many quality restaurants, hotels, lodges, shops, Money exchange, internet cafe and a bakery. Namche is one of the biggest villages along the whole Everest trail.

Day 06- Namche Bazaar Acclimatization day. Overnight at guesthouse.

We will spend a day here in order to acclimatize and adjust to the thinning of the air. As well as a short trek where a museum is celebrating the traditional customs of the Sherpa people. Today we hike up the Syangboche Airport around Everest View Hotel. From this point, we can see rewarding views of the Himalayas with a stunning sunrise and sunset over the panorama of Khumbu peak.

Day 07- Trek to Tengboche Monastery (3860 meters) 5 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.

The trek continues along the rushing glacial waters of the Dudh Kosi with magnificent views of the mountains. We trek to an altitude of 3860meters today. On reaching Tengboche you will see the local monastery. Inside the monastery are incredibly ornate wall hangings, a 20-foot sculpture of Buddha, and the musical instruments and robes of the Lamas. The group will be taken to observe a prayer ceremony either in the evening or morning depending on how the days trekking went.

Day 08- Trek to Dingboche (4350 meters) 6 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.

From Thyangboche the trail drops to Debuche, crosses another exciting suspension bridge on the Imja Khola, and climbs to Pangboche amongst thousands of mani stones. Our uphill trek continues, taking us to the quaint traditional Sherpa village of Dingboche with its exquisite views of Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam. We take our time so we avoid getting affected by the altitude.

Day 09- Acclimatization day. Overnight at guesthouse.

Today you can enjoy another day for acclimatization. We may have trip to Chhukung valley via the Imja Khola valley to get a marvellous view of the surrounding mountains, especially Lhotse’s massive south wall, then return to Dingboche in the evening.

Day 10- Trek to Ama Dblam  Base Camp (4600 meters), 5 hours. Overnight at tented camp.

We trek back down the trail to the bridge at Pangboche and cross the Dudh Kosi before climbing up the far side of the river and following the trail and ridgeline up to base camp (3.5 hours from Pangboche). Base camp is an idyllic spot from which the majority of the route is visible. At an altitude of about 15,000ft (4,600meters) it provides a comfortable escape from the rigours of the climb. Our porters deposit their loads and leave us here for the next 3 weeks, with only our Sirdar, Sherpas and Cook staff remaining.

Day 11- Today is a rest day and acclimatization. Overnight at tented camp.

Day 12 to 26- Climbing period of Ama Dablam.

We do not provide a prescriptive day-to-day itinerary for the climb, as this will be decided by the expedition leader and member. They will take a flexible approach based on their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills and acclimatizing before moving above base camp. It is normal to ‘tag’ or spend at least one night in camp1 (5,700meters) as part of any acclimatization schedule, before returning to base camp, resting and preparing for a summit push.

Ama Dablam Climb via South West Ridge

After base camp 4,600meters old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle 5,150meters from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. It is possible to place an Advanced Base Camp at 5,400meters below the boulder field. The route continues in a northwards direction around the base of the boulder field, and then follow cairns upwards towards the toe of the SW ridge. Camp 1 should now be visible just below Pt. 5,705meters. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp. There are four or five tent platforms.

From Camp 1 we continue our round the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of severe standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, turning difficulties on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of Very Severe standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easy ground followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15meter pitch, which is just below Camp 2, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at HVS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp Two 5,900meters. Camp Two  has very limited tent space (3 or 4 tents platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used as an equipment dump with expeditions choosing to go from Camp I to Camp III in a single push.

From Camp Two, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and after a step down, follows the snow ridge direct to an awkward traverse eastwards which leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended to the start of the Mushroom Ridge. This is followed and typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp III 6,300meters is reached .

The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp III and to the right hand side of the Dablam. We continue to skirt the Dablam on the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.

Day 27- Trek back to Namche Bazar (3441 meters), 6 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.

We descend to Namche bazar. If we are lucky, it will be market time in Namche. Regardless, there is always fabulous food to be found, including real espresso, yak steaks and chocolate cake with frosting! This market is where lowland porters bearing supplies meet the highland Sherpa and Tibetan people who have journeyed over high passes from many miles away to trade food and supplies for their home or village. Enjoy and celebrate your expedition.

Day 28- Trek to Lukla (2808 meters) 6 hours. Overnight at guesthouse.

Finally we return to Lukla where the trek began, which will seem like a lifetime ago. Enjoying time to reflect on the trek as a group and the personal achievement of all those who took part. Also giving you time to explore the town.

Day 29- Flight from Lukla to Kathmandu in the morning. Overnight at hotel.

Enjoying your last glimpse of the mountains you have recently visited for one last time on the 35 minute Scenic flight back to Kathmandu. On arrival in Kathmandu we are met and transferred back to hotel.

Day 30- Free day in Kathmandu. We will arrange farewell dinner for the team. Overnight at hotel.

This is also a buffer day in case our Lukla flight is delayed. If we fly out of Lukla on time we have a full day to relax and enjoy the various delights of Kathmandu. In the evening celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpas and the team member for their support and friendship during the expedition with the hope of seeing you all again for next expedition!.

Day 31- Transfer you to the International airport for your final departure. 

The trip concludes!, our airport representative will drop you to the Kathmandu International Airport for your flight departure from Nepal.

Price Includes

    • Airport / hotel / airport pick up & drop by private car / van / bus.
    • (5 nights) standard twin sharing accommodation in 3 / 4 star hotel in Kathmandu (B&B)
    • Guided city tour in Kathmandu by private car / van / bus.
    • Full board meal during the trek and camping at base camp, prepared by our cook with hot tea & coffee, hot milk, hot chocolate.
    • All base camp and Aavance base camp camping gears (We will provide fully water proof dining tents, kitchen gears, dining table, chairs, toilet tents, shower tent  at the base camp and advance base camp)
    • High quality tents for all camps.
    • Insurance for all Nepali staff and porters including helicopter rescue provision.
    • Boiled and purify drinking water for the trek and at base camp.
    • Expedition permits
    • Liaison officer and his round trip flight, insurance, wages, expedition equipments etc.
    • High altitude climbing food, fuel, Gas above base camp (you are also advised to bring some high altitude food yourselves)
    • Guide, cook, porters, helpers up to base camp
    • Climbing Sherpas (2 member = 1 Sherpa Ratio on climbing day)
    • A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
    • Oxygen equipment for medical use only.
    • A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
    • Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation.
    • Sightseeing / Monument entrance fees in Kathmandu.
    • Welcome and farewell dinner for members in Kathmandu.
    • Power supply at Base Camp for charging electronics (solar and generator backup)
    • Flight cost from Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu including airport departure tax at both airport.
    • All the transportation from / to Kathmandu.
    • All our government taxes and vat.

Price Excludes

    • Lunch and dinner whilst in Kathmandu.
    • International airfare.
    • Travel insurance which covers emergency Rescue and Evacuation.
    • Nepal entry visa fee (Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 30 days can be obtained by paying US $ 40. Similarly, Tourist Visa with Multiple Entry for 90 days can be obtained by paying US $ 100. You will also require 2 passport size photos.)
    • Items of a personal nature such as alcoholic drinks, cold drinks, laundry.
    • Personal trekking and Climbing Equipment.
    • Any others expenses which are not mentioned on service Include section.
    • Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (sharing from climbing group). It is refundable; however, it will not be refundable if the climbers fail to take back their garbage to Namche Bazar and Kathmandu.
    • Excess baggage charges.
    • Sherpa tip pool (See below)
    • Internet and sat phone.
    • Costs incurred as a result of delays or events beyond the control of Himalaya Discovery Adventures.
    • Single Supplementary US$ 300 per person (Includes single hotel room in Kathmandu, single room / tent on trek, single tent at Base Camp)

Recommended tipping and Sherpa bonuses are as follow:

    • Allow $50-100 for general non-sherpa crew who stay at base camp.
    • Allow $100-200 for sherpas who go up to the base camp.
    • Summit climbing Sherpa US$ 200 – 500 per Sherpa.

Guaranteed - Trip is Guaranteed to run.
Available - Trip is available to run if minimum group size is filled
Limited - Only few space available.

Q. Will somebody come to pick me up at the airport upon my arrival?

A. Yes, our airport representative will be there to greet you at the airport. S/he will be displaying an Himalaya Discovery Adventures sign board outside the airport terminal. Upon arrival, you will be transferred to your hotel by our tourist vehicle.

Q. When is the best time to travel to Nepal?

A. For the trekking regions of the Annapurna, Everest, Langtang, Jumla Rara Lake, Makalu, Kanchenjunga and Manaslu we recommend the periods February to May and September to December as the best time for travelling.

  •  For trekking in Mustang or Dolpo region we recommend May to September.
  • The Poon hill  trek  in the Annapurna region takes place throughout the entire year.
  • Cultural tours takes place throughout the entire year. For the best mountain views the periods February to May and September to December are recommended.

Q. How is the climate (temperatures) during the seasons?

A. Winter – January and February. Pleasant temperatures. The nights, mornings and evenings can, however, be quite cold (approx. 0°C – 5°C. Throughout the day, it is mostly sunny with cooler temperatures (approx. 18°C – 20°C).

Spring – March to May. Hot and dry pre-monsoon season (approx. 25°C – 30°C during the day, and approx. 7°C – 20°C at night). May is the hottest month in the lowlands. June is the hottest month in the mountains.

Summer – Monsoon from June to August (approx. 28°C – 30°C during the day, and approx. 20°C at night). Strong rainfall, continuous sultriness and high humidity.

Early autumn – From September the monsoon season is constantly interrupted by periods with only a slight rainfall. Towards the end of August the pauses in rainfall become more frequent and longer.

Late autumn – Post-monsoon season from October to December. The nights, mornings and evenings can be relatively cool (approx. 5°C – 10°C). During the day the sun shines and it is warm (approx. 20°C – 27°C).

Q. Where can I change money?

A. Any cash you have taken with you can be exchanged into Nepalese rupees at the banks, large hotels and the numerous bureau de changes.

Q. Can I use my mobile phone in Nepal?

A. The network coverage is meanwhile quite good in the Kathmandu Valley, Pokhara and other parts of the Terai (in the rural areas it is very unpredictable).

Basically, foreign SIM cards (providers having international roaming contracts with Nepal) can also be used. However, it is cheaper to buy a local SIM card (Mero Mobile, NTC (GSM) – for approx. NPR 500 or more) and top this up.

Q. Can I use the tap water for drinking and brushing teeth?

A. Tap water is not suitable for drinking in Nepal and it should not be used for cleaning your teeth, either. As there is often a scarcity of water in the countryside, water should be used very sparingly.

Q. What should I concern during my stay in Nepal?

A. Nepali people are very kind and friendly, but there are some things that you should be aware of:

  • Do not take photos of anyone without their permission; always ask permission first!
  • Do not wear hot pants/short paints or stylish clothes in the remote area! (shoulders and legs should be covered)
  • Do not wear hats or caps when you enter a chapel!
  • Do not touch Buddha statues or ritual offerings inside of a monastery!
  • Do not kiss or hug in public places, especially in monasteries!
  • Do not step across someone’s feet, cups or cooking gears!

Q. What documents do I need to visit Nepal?

A. A tourist visa is required for entering Nepal. The tourist visa can be applied for, for different lengths of stay. A visa is required for children under 10 years but no fee is charged. The entry to Nepal must take place within 6 months of issuing the visa.

Q. How much does the Visa for Nepal cost?

A. The fees for the tourist visa (fees valid since 16.07.2008) are staggered as follows:

  • 15 days (several entries possible)  $ 25 (approx. EUR 20.00)
  • 30 days (several entries possible)  $ 40 (approx. EUR 35.00)
  • 90 days (several entries possible)  $ 100 (approx. EUR 85.00)

An extension of the visa to a maximum of 150 days is possible (per year – January to December). The extension must be made at the Immigration Office in Kathmandu. A fee of $ 2.00 is charged in Nepalese rupees (NPR) per day of extension.

Q. Can I find a hospital with western doctors?

A. CIWEC Clinic with western doctors is located in Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Tel. +977 1 442 4111, info@ciwec-clinic.com.

Q. Do I need an international health and travel insurance?

A. It is recommended taking out a travel and health insurance covering the following risks:- Emergency and personal accident transport/emergency evacuation (helicopter rescue, rescue costs in a case of illness or accident), medical and personal accident risks, repatriation, tour cancellation, damages and theft of baggage.

Q. What happens in bad weather periods?

A. There is virtually always a possibility of a flight delay or postponement owing to highly unpredictable weather conditions that may occur in Himalayan regions, in particular, in the Everest region (Lukla), Jomsom, Dolpo, Simikot and the Jumla region, etc.

When trekking in remote areas or those described above, and especially outside the trekking season, the clients are strongly advised to reserve extra days for making  allowance for possible delays, and thereby avoid any frustrating consequences. In the case of a delayed flight prior to commencing the tour, or at the end of the tour, the participants shall pay for their own accommodation, food costs, etc.

Q. Where can I store my unneeded luggage during trekking?

A. As a rule there is the possibility before commencing the trek, of depositing part of the baggage in the hotel in Kathmandu or in Pokhara.

Q. What kind of meals I can have during the trekking?

A. All Meals on full board basis will be provided during trekking. Freshly cooked food is served at all times (western, continental and Nepalese, Chinese, Indian and Tibetan meals are available in all places).

Q. Is there any communication while we are on trekking?

A. There are telephones in some villages along the trekking routes from which you can make international calls. All our guides are equipped with the local mobile phone. You may wish to pass the number of our guide to your family for the callback or you can make a call from the guide’s mobile and pay him directly for the international call too.

Q. Can I re-charge camera batteries along the trek?

A. Yes, Most of the places, you can charge batteries along the trek (per hour USD 2 – 3 for charging).

Q. What kinds of banking facilities in Nepal?

A. Nepal has modern banking facilities and some international banks even have offices in Kathmandu. Almost all foreign currencies along with credit cards such as American Express, Visa, and Master card are accepted in Nepal. Nepal has also ATM facilities as well.

The above itinerary is not a fixed program but is intended to give an indication of the likely events during the expedition. Please note that because of climbing High Mountain, it will be necessary to have a flexible plan in order to take the best advantage of situations as they present themselves. Any changes to the itinerary will be made with a view to maximizing the benefit to the team members and of ensuring their eventual success on the mountain.

Normally climbers will change their departure flights from Kathmandu when they know exactly when the expedition is going to end. We plan to stay at Base Camp for climbing as long as it takes for us to be successful.

Our Philosophy

Our aim is to safely help as many team members as possible reach their goal, and we invest in the people and equipment that will make this happen. We value our reputation as the premiere  climbing company in Himalayas and we only put programs in place that measure up to our own high standards. If you would like to join an excellent team on Ama Dablam, we encourage you to contact us to discuss your goals and qualifications and secure an exciting role for yourself on our team!

Medical Cover

All of our local leaders are trained in first aid and have a good knowledge of high altitude medical problems. The expedition will be equipped with the following:

  • A well stocked first aid and medical kit sufficient to counter any possible mountaineering ailments, from headache to serious injury.
  • Oxygen equipment for medical and emergency use only.
  • A portable hyperbaric chamber (Gamow bag)
  • Emergency communications on the mountain and satellite communications link for helicopter evacuation.

Communications

Experience has shown how important it is on mountaineering to be able to talk to every team member, at all times. If you join Himalaya Discovery for Ama Dablam expedition you will have a dedicated radio. Each Sherpa will also have his own radio, so that at all times we can keep in touch with everyone, and everyone can keep in touch with each other.

We have an extremely good working relationship with the Helicopter Rescue Service, which means that an aircraft can be in the air immediately. Base Camp is equipped with a lap top and high speed satellite connection. The satellite communications are also used to send back regular reports, every couple of days, to Himalaya Discovery office. Expedition updates are then posted on the web and / or are sent to family and friends via email.

Oxygen & Regulators

Normally climbers summit Ama Dablam without use of oxygen but we still supply them for emergency use. If you wish to use oxygen for summit day, please let us know in advance.

We will be using lightweight oxygen bottles, manufactured by Poisk. The Poisk bottles are without doubt the best available for mountaineering, as they have a proven track-record and are relatively light. The regulators are also manufactured by Poisk

Marketing

While the official name of the expedition will remain the “Himalaya Discovery Ama Dablam Expedition “, you can use another name for personal marketing purposes if it will assist you in any way. You will also be completely free to enter into personal agreements with sponsors or supporters if you choose.

Passport Photographs

Expedition members will need to provide 6 passport-size photographs for various climbing and trekking permits.

Sherpas

Sherpas are the indigenous people who were born in the Himalayas, reared in the Himalayas, involved in the occupation like climbing and mountaineering. Our Sherpa team has dozens of 8000meters summits between them. We have a legendary group of Climbing Sherpas who operate the expedition and its members in a harmonious atmosphere of cooperation and commitment. Our group of climbing Sherpas is enthusiastic, motivated and regarded as the strongest and most cohesive group of Sherpas in the Himalayas. It is indicative of the reputation that our Sherpa team has earned – that Sherpas from other expeditions enthusiastically pursue a future position with the A Himalaya Discovery Team.

Our cooking staffs are very well known for the quality of the cuisine they produce and as a consequence are coveted by other team leaders due to the reputation they have established.

Website Updates

We provide updates using our own website so regardless of whether you have your own or not your family and friends will know what is happening.

Environment

We remove all garbage from each camps, and this includes toilet waste.

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